Quinta da Bouca D'Arques

Blissful peace and relaxation at this beguiling 300-year-old Minho manor house, with boutique B&B apartments for 2-4 set in its lush green grounds

Just 10km from Viana do Castelo, one of the most beautiful coastal towns in Portugal's northerly Minho province, this elegant manor house has been a part of the Abreu Teixera's family history for 3 centuries. Every ancient granite stone would have its story to tell. Yet when it came to refashioning this idyllic Quinta as a rural retreat, Ana and husband João were keen to add their own individual stamp. They turned old farm dependencies into 4 cosy apartments, renovated in tune with their pastoral past, then added 2 modern pod-style apartments in amongst the greenery. These wood, glass, steel and concrete structures stand in striking juxtaposition to the adjoining manor. And for those happy with less space, they created one suite in the main house.

Every one has had oodles of TLC lavished upon it, combining family antiques, Ana's hand-painted furniture and paintings with every creature comfort. All are wrapped round by a delectable swathe of mature garden, awash with the colours of agapanthus, hortensia, jacaranda and bougainvillea, and shaded by towering trees - perfect for blissfully lazy afternoons with just a book for company. I found it incredibly reminiscent of those hill station homes the British built in India: places to retreat, recuperate and rejoice in the beauty of what lies all about you.

Highs

• Little-known beaches, excellent food and wine, crystalline rivers and ancient footpaths: the Minho has something for everyone
• Rates include breakfast, which is brought to your apartment, after which you have the freedom to self-cater (except in the suite) or eat out at great restaurants
• João, Ana and Angelo, your hosts at the Quinta, just couldn't be nicer: you'll leave having made new friends
• Garden lovers will wax lyrical about the Quinta's woodlands, vineyards, lawns and shrubberies, with a delectable pool set amongst them
• Flexible accommodations in spacious surroundings will suit everyone from families to honeymooners

Lows

• The Minho can see heavy rain in the winter months, though you'd be warm and cosy at the Quinta
• No other meals served apart from breakfast, and you'll need a car to get to restaurants and food shops (all apartments bar one have a kitchenette)
• João's work sometimes takes him away to Lisbon: it would be a real shame not to meet him
• If you're staying in one of the traditional apartments which horseshoe round the lawn, you should expect to rub shoulders with your neighbours