Quinta das Eiras

A romantic tropical retreat in the northeast of the island with cosy self-catering wooden lodges and a dash of Zen

Alpine charm and eastern Zen sounds like an unusual combination, but the Quinta das Eiras pulls it off. The golfers may be driving their fairways in Santo da Serra but this backwater, up a winding path in the hinterland of Madeira, feels like another world.

Ten stilted cabins dot themselves across the grounds (two of these pair up for family stays); there's a honeymooners' stone cottage tucked away near the manager’s lodge and a red house near the gates. All is well-tended, secluded and very romantic. You get a swimming pool on the lawn, a hot tub overlooking the river and a tranquil, tropical, back-to-nature feel. Each perched home feels woody and rustic, with its simple kitchenette, tiny bathroom and deliciously comfortable bed - think luxurious camping. A place to unwind: rest body and soul against a background of bird ballad and river rush, take a dip into the pool or get sporty. Horse riding and golf are both nearby and there's a sailing yacht you can hire for the day.

Highs

• The setting: tropical gardens, paddling ducks and an all-pervading sense of serenity
• Quirky design pieces in the stone cottage and the red house add a refreshingly arty touch
• Sitting in the hot tub overlooking the river is deeply, madly indulgent
• The stone cottage, a former cowshed, is undeniably romantic, complete with flowers round the door
• The stilted cabins are cosy, warm and fun

Lows

• The nearest shops and restaurant are 1km away, so you'll need a car
• No room service, nor breakfast, coffee or tea facilities. This is strictly self-catering
• Not for movers and shakers – the pace of life here is slow, slow, slow
• Narrow steps up to the stilted cabins would be tricky for toddlers or those with mobility problems