Raheem Residency

A super-stylish heritage hotel with swimming pool, Ayurvedic spa and rooftop dining in Alleppey, the capital of the Kerala backwaters

This is a great little find; a throw-back to the days of the Raj which mixes style and substance to great effect. Originally built by an Englishman in 1868 and home to the well-to-do Raheem family for 100 years (during which time Nehru and Gandhi visited), it has been lovingly restored by Irish ex-journalist Bibi and her Indian business partner Flemin. The result is a stunning fusion of traditional Indian elegance and modern comforts. Coloured glass fanlights flood the main house with rainbow light, ceilings are palatially high and the rooms are shuttered, with antique wooden furniture and ornately carved objets d’art.

The bougainvillea-draped whitewashed walls enclose a tranquil, luxurious space. The 10 rooms are arranged around 2 courtyards (one with a turquoise, cashew-shaped swimming pool) and a lush garden. The rooftop restaurant is reached by a spiral staircase and looks out across the sea. You can indulge in a little morning yoga or Ayurveda, swing in a hammock, borrow a bicycle to explore, or book fittings with the resident tailor. If you fancy a sunset stroll or a camel ride along the beach, just cross the road and you’ll find the palm-fringed sands of the Malabar Coast - almost deserted during the week, and buzzing with local life at weekends.

Highs

• The stunningly restored heritage building has stylish, high-ceilinged rooms and is furnished with wonderful Keralan antiques
• The owners and staff are friendly, the attention to detail is fantastic and everywhere is spotlessly clean
• The beautiful freshwater swimming pool sits in a suntrap courtyard, surrounded by cushioned loungers
• The open-sided rooftop restaurant faces out over the Arabian sea
• You’ll find quirky heritage touches; just ring the little handbell for pre-dinner aperitifs

Lows

• Alleppey doesn’t have much nightlife, though there are sometimes free concerts on the beach
• The mosquitos can be over-friendly, but coils and plug-in repellents are provided
• Previous reports suggested the beach across the road can be untidy, but we're assured this is no longer the case thanks to a team of local women who clean it every morning