Ramathra Fort

On a hilltop far away, this luxury camp within a 350-year-old fort with staggering views offers a window into rural Rajasthan

It's safe to say that the craftsmen who built this Rajput battle fort were not thinking about luxury tents and sundowner cocktails when they built it; their minds were on elephant attacks, tribal skirmishes and invading warriors. 350 years later, the beautifully renovated fort is a real gem, and far from repelling invading forces, it welcomes visitors warmly.

Staying here is impossibly romantic. There are 6 luxury tents spread around a central lawn, and 6 suites in the fort building with views of the river valley and misty, undulating mountains beyond. The RajPals have cleverly renovated just enough to create a haven with fading grandeur and tumbling bougainvillea-covered walls as well as luxury touches like outdoor bathrooms, storm lanterns and hand-woven fabrics from Jaipur.

Ramathra Fort is well placed for a romantic honeymoon tour of Rajasthani palaces or tented camps (this is a bit of both). You could spend a couple of days in Jaipur, a day in Agra, a couple of days at Ranthambhore, then come here. We haven't visited yet but hear it's a destination in itself thanks to its remote setting, boat trips, jeep tours and utter tranquility.

Highs

• Welcoming owners; Ravi is a wildlife enthusiast and extremely knowledgable about the history and geography of the region
• The activities: guided tours to villages, cave temples and gorges show you a hidden side of Rajasthan, and Kalisil Lake is a haven for migratory birds
• Awesome views from the outdoor bathtubs of the Luxury suites, magical when candlelit, and the romantic tents are a perfect marriage of outdoor space and stylish living
• Locally farmed food, cooked in the traditional style from family recipes. All included in the room rate
• The Milky Way is clear in the night sky, and there's a high-power reflector telescope to explore it

Lows

• Getting here is an adventure and the last 100km of road are rough
• No airport transfers so you'll need to come by car or train - the owners can collect you from the train station for a fee
• No TV reception, limited mobile phone signal (all in keeping with the tranquil rural setting)
• No restaurants or shopping for tourists nearby
• The hotel is the destination. It is in a remote area and feels cut off from the world (a high for honeymooners)