Reserva do Ibitipoca

Off the beaten track 3.5 hours north of Rio, this secret hideaway in a Brazilian nature reserve is well worth the trip

Parrots fly free in the rainforests, cool rivers run through green valleys and caves, and when the sun goes down, the sky is bright with stars. Few foreigners have discovered this 3,000ha private reserve and sustainability initiative 3.5 hours north of Rio, where nature rules; come here now, before they do. The centrepiece of the reserve is the 18th century-farmhouse of Fazenda do Engenho, one of Brazil’s finest small hotels, with just 8 suites, a unique design mixing local, rustic heritage and 21st-century amenities, and stables of Mangalarga and Anglo-Arabian horses.

Guided daily excursions on foot or horseback explore the reserve's caves, valleys and natural wonders, and afterwards you can sink into loungers by Engenho’s Waterfall and unwind with a frosty caipirinha. The wonderful spa offers Ayurvedic massages and well-being rituals, and there are daily yoga classes to balance your mind, too. A stunning place to escape and rejuve.

Highs

• A sensational location in Minas Gerais, surrounded by rainforests and the best of rural Brazil’s landscape
• Fantastic food, drawing on local specialities; all meals are included, and you can dine where you like
• Highly personal and charming service
• The suites are a great size, with rustic chic design and pampering extras (iPod docks, personalised Havaianas, L'Occitane toiletries). There are 2 private houses, too; perfect for honeymooners or groups
• A highly commendable preservation and conservation project helping local people and rebuilding local habitats

Lows

• News of the fazenda has yet to get outside Brazil and you could be the only guests, especially if you stay midweek
• It’s a 3.5-hour journey from Rio, but in a country as gigantic as Brazil, that's not so bad
• No other restaurants nearby for a change of scene
• A lot of the staff don’t speak English, though there are always people around who do