Rhotia Valley Tented Lodge

A simple but stunning hilltop lodge in a great location near Ngorongoro, with a real community mission

As we bump off-road and wind our way up a steep dirt track, past traditional cottages, farmers' fields, sleeping dogs and clusters of waving children, we see Rhotia Lodge at the very top of the hill. Perched proud, with stunning panoramic views of the valley below, its rural location is amazing - and all the more so for being a mere 30-minute drive from the Ngorongoro Crater. Most hotels near the Crater charge an arm and a leg for the privilege of staying there. Not so Rhotia, which is both a lodge and a community project all in one, its mission to provide a home for local children who have none.

Built from indigenous hardwood, in traditional African style, the main building is wrapped by an open veranda, with stools and easy chairs to soak up the glorious view over a sundowner beer. Staff are instantly wonderful, rushing out to welcome you with big smiles, cold towels and freshly squeezed juice; it feels good to be here. Out back are 15 tented houses: simple but attractive, with bright linens and private verandas. They are not luxurious, but life’s little pleasures are all in place: hot showers, comfy beds, even hot-water bottles at night. And after you rise to a delicious organic breakfast and piping hot coffee before an early-morning game drive in the Crater, you'll leave with a smile on your face - even at 5.30am.

Highs

• A great budget option - including this lodge in your itinerary will lower the cost of your overall safari holiday
• The Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO site with the highest density of animals in Africa. The Serengeti migration passes through here May-October, and we saw masses of lions, hippos and zebra, and, thrillingly, a rhino
• Good, imaginative food, most of it from Rhotia’s organic vegetable garden or supplied by local farmers
• The cosy lounge with its wicker sofas and open fireplace, which you’ll appreciate in the evenings as you’re 1700m above sea level so it can get chilly
• By staying here you directly contribute to The Rhotia Valley Children’s Home, which sits on an adjacent hilltop. It’s genuinely heart-warming to see the kids out playing, and you can visit if you want

Lows

• You may get some creepy crawlies in your tent. We had a scary large spider, but staff cheerfully removed it for us
• Noise travels between the tents; bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper
• Much more basic than our other safari lodges - this is by no means luxurious - but you’ll be very comfortable, and it's great to know that the lodge's profits help such a fantastic cause