Riad al Bartal

A delightful French-run maison d'hotes (riad guesthouse) in Fes's extraordinary medina

Fes is the cultural and religious heart of Morocco, an intriguing medieval maze of exotic souks and twisting alleyways where market traders still carry their wares by donkey. More turbulent and less touristy than Marrakech, Fes has few boutique guesthouses, and Riad al Bartal was one of the first. It’s a traditional riad that was renovated with élan by a French couple who lived here with their daughter for many years, before selling it to some compatriots in 2010.

You get the cool, classic Moroccan lines of an interior courtyard with white marble flooring and rampant potted plants (plus a resident parrot, Poulet!); and warm, softly-lit bedrooms with decorative touches of colourful mosaics and fabrics. Soaring arches, cedarwood balconies and an airy roof terrace add to the air of freshness: there's no overbearing European formality here. Guests are encouraged to chat together over breakfast or communal dinners, and to get out and about in the gritty, winding streets of the medina; staff have plenty of contacts for tannery or workshop tours. In the morning, listen for the riad’s namesake, the tiny birds that flit about the courtyard chirping sweetly, while enjoying Bartal’s wonderful breakfast alongside the other guests fortunate to have found one of Fes’s little gems.

Highs

• Excellent location in the Fes medina, considered the most authentic in Arab world
• Beautifully decorated with intricate zellig tilework, carved wooden doors and lofty columns - among the most impressive of the guesthouse riads
• Unlike much of Fes, the riad is accessible by car - vehicles are parked in a safe garage with caretaker
• The charming French host, Raymond Prieto-Perez, and his staff know the city well and will bend over backwards to help with your sightseeing
• Many of the rooms can sleep 1 or 2 extra guests - great for families

Lows

• There's a 2 night minimum stay, but you'll probably want that much time if it's your first visit to Fes
• Don't let the riad's plain exterior and dusty approach put you off
• The mezzanine rooms are not ideal for those with toddlers
• The rooms can be dark - a godsend in summer, less so in winter
• There's no pool at the riad (though you can get day entry to other hotel pools)