Riad Al Jazira

Hippie deluxe: a beautifully restored trio of 17th century riads hidden in Marrakech's medina, keenly priced and very chilled (15 rooms)

The warren-like, almost subterranean tunnels leading to the door of this unpretentious riad are, frankly, unpromising. Outside it’s all hustle, bustle, barrows, the cries of the muezzins and high, blank walls. But inside it’s a jaw-dropping scene-shift to a palmy oasis at this hippie deluxe riad, where three courtyard homes have been converted into one stylishly understated residence.

15 spotless, blisteringly white guestrooms are hidden behind heavy wooden doors and layers of linen drapes. Airy central covered courtyards have comfy seating areas: red rugs on golden brick floors, leafy palms over wooden chaises and – spectacularly – a colonnaded swimming pool in a setting reminiscent of great Carthage. Colourful accents are provided by red or purple cushions and kilims, and artfully arranged rose petals. We like this riad. It’s smart, cool and roomy enough to let you escape to in some forgotten salon when you need to; and you get budget prices with no scrimping on style or comfort.

Highs

• Covered courtyards keep out the cold in winter but still give you those delicious, spirit-lifting blue skies
• Oasis feel, especially around the small pool
• Cosy niches to make your own
• Delicious, help-yourself breakfasts with Italian coffee
• Small hammam
• Very well priced for what you get
• Decidedly un-ethnic art cleverly lifts the décor into the 21st century
• Ten minutes walk from Djemaa El Fna

Lows

• Service can be a bit hit and miss, be prepared to order coffee twice and, inshallah, it will get there in the end
• Steep, winding steps aren’t great for toddlers or if you have any mobility problems
• Guestrooms are uniformly long and narrow
• Courtyard acoustics amplify some sounds better kept en famille
• There’s a 100-yard approach to the riad which can only be made on foot
• English is spoken – though you might not realise it