Riad Enija

Rooms

After an exhausting day seeking out curio shops and snake charmers (or avoiding them), you need to be cosseted. Riad Enija will cosset you, and in style. The elegant, silk-draped four-poster bed cries out to be collapsed on (but also gently suggests you take your shoes off first). The low brass table beckons with luscious fruit and a pitcher of fresh spring water (sadly no longer piped from the Atlas Mountains, as once). The lure of bathrobe and velvet slippers helps you off the bed and into the bathroom, after which you can relax on a private rooftop terrace (in 6 of the rooms) or in the adjoining courtyard.

All fifteen bedrooms are spacious and airy, many of them with windows or terraces overlooking one of the courtyards; most have a dressing or sitting area. They are all unashamedly romantic, with antique four-poster beds in the Mauve, Blue, Anemone, Purple and Peacock rooms, as well as in the Chameleon and Prince suites. There's only one twin-bedded room (Harem), but Gekko has two narrow double beds so can be used as a generous twin or as a very intimate double!

For those who want to splash out, the Lezard Suite is the largest, while at the other end of the scale the Patio room is cosy and warm but, being right on the courtyard, less private. One of the most exotic rooms is Lion, with its ornate wall tiling and carved doors onto the courtyard.

All have their own bathroom, but not all are ensuite - you may have to cross a corridor. Some bathrooms are long and thin, others more compact; expect vivid-coloured walls, an old roll-top tub and a separate shower.