Riad Fes

An extremely popular riad, with a choice of traditional and modern rooms, and perhaps the best service in Fes' medina

Space is at a premium in the maze-like medina, but this place has stacks of it. Spread across 3 fused riads are 2 patios (each with a pool), a traditional Fassi court and 26 generous bedrooms, all linked by numerous stairways and - a medina rarity - a lift.

First impressions are grand and traditional: an enclosed two-storey court, etched in eye-boggling stucco-work and starry zellij from column bases to translucent roof, furnished with red sofas and a grand piano, and overhung by a vast, perforated copper spinning top of a lamp. Step next door into the new Andalous wing (pictured), and it’s another story. Sleek and chic, with an ornamental strip pool flanked by giant lanterns and potted trees, it ripples with underwater spotlamps and chill-out music at night. Above are 7 deluxe suites in contemporary style – a refreshing alternative to the ornate grandeur of the older rooms. Faultless service from a dozen uniformed staff, overseen by a brisk and multilingual manageress, contributes to its unfailing popularity, especially with Fes-first-timers.

Highs

• Great location in the sought-after Zerbtana quarter of the medina
• Roof-level dining terrace – with elevator for the less mobile
• The deluxe rooms are extremely spacious, modern and well equipped
• Staff are extremely helpful and professional – probably the best service in the medina
• The small dipping pool in the old court is a godsend in summer
• By night, the Andalous court, with its pool, bar and ambient music, is one of Fes' most stylish places to hang out

Lows

• The older rooms are very traditional (if you prefer modern decor, ask for a deluxe room)
• It's pricey by riad standards, but warranted by high standards and service
• You'll need to book ahead, as it's very popular