Riad Laaroussa

An opulent riad at the heart of the Medina where guests can learn the secrets of traditional Fassi cookery

You arrive at Laaroussa via the narrowest of alleyways, past donkeys, street vendors, laughing children and stray cats. After pushing aside an ancient wooden door and following a covered passageway, you emerge into a patio of such lofty grandeur that you can only gasp in wonder. This was once the inner sanctum of the annexe to the Mnebhi palace: it later became a Koranic school before being acquired by the Larussa family from Italy, only to be abandoned and forgotten.

In the latest chapter of the riad's fascinating history, two entrepreneurial French partners rescued the building and rebirthed it as one of the city's most sumptuous hostelries, after an inspired restoration project using the city's finest artisans. Fountains, columns, keyhole arches and ornate tile and woodwork conjure up visions that feel plucked from the pages of 1001 Nights. Bedrooms are regal in size and furnishings, there's an amazing hammam, and the remarkable team of chefs will let you help out in their kitchen during your stay at this unique Fassi hideaway.

Highs

• You're at the heart of the action, in between Bab Bou Jeloud and the Kairouine Mosque
• The hammam is one of the city's best, with a great team of masseurs and therapists
• Oodles of exotic and sensual charm, and perfect for a romantic break
• You're encouraged to venture into the kitchen, get to know the staff, and learn the secrets of Fassi cuisine
• Adjacent La Maison Laaroussa sleeps 8 in 4 rooms; ideal for a group of friends or extended family holiday

Lows

• Some of the contemporary art might not be to everyone's taste but, there again, what art would be?
• Don't expect a turndown service
• Laaroussa isn't cheap by Moroccan standards but is good value when compared with places back home - and the price includes an excellent breakfast