Riad Tizwa

A great-value sanctuary with panoramic views across the medina and delicious fassi cooking

Tizwa means 'bee' in Arabic: it takes its name from brothers Daniel and Richard Bee who loved the Fes medina so much, they were inspired to open a hotel here. So they found a grand old family house of elegant proportions, and after an inspired restoration project it has become an ode to the decorative arts of Morocco: chiselled stucco, polished tadelakt, geometric woodwork, zellig and beijmat tiling, and ornate ironmongery.

Given the wealth of detail present in the fabric of the building, when it came to furnishing the riad the Bees kept things spare: a few low tables, easy chairs and potted plants in the soaring central patio; simple bench seats in the salon; Berber rugs in a rich hue of garnet, and uncluttered bedrooms. But despite the beauty of this décor, it's not the main draw. There are other, even more appealing elements. The views of the medina from Tizwa's terrace could not be bettered, the welcome is warm and genuine, breakfasts (served any time you want) are fabulous, and the 6 enormous guest rooms come with a price tag which is way below similar ones in the medina.

Highs

• A great location just yards from Place Batha and the souks, with covered parking close by
• The riad is very quiet and has super-comfy beds so you'll sleep deeply
• Excellent service: the winning combination of Merieme, Tizwa's charming manager, and chef Nadia, who conjures up fabulous Moroccan feasts
• Great for romantics: the central courtyard looks stunning at night when scented candles are lit and rose petals strewn across floors and tables
• Tizwa's crowning glory is its roof terrace, which takes in an amazing panoramic sweep of the medina and the Atlas mountains beyond

Lows

• The guest sitting room felt a little dark and uninviting, although with the seating in the courtyard and big bedrooms there's no real need to use it
• No in-room safes
• Simple compared to some of Fes's more elaborate riads, but this is reflected in the price