Riva Lofts

Historic mill on Florence's Arno river, transformed by a top Italian architect into 10 cool studios with fantastic garden and pool

What does a revered architect do after creating flagship stores for Dolce & Gabbana? In Claudio Nardi's case, he transformed his own Florentine riverside studio into an avant-garde showpiece of 10 stunning studios. No two are the same, but all are awash with bold contemporary design: polished concrete floors and muted colours, flea market furniture and Mies van der Rohe chairs, sleek fireplaces and tables designed by Nardi himself.

You might think these design credentials mean snooty staff. Not a bit. Alice, Claudio's glamorous daughter, is a charming guide to hotel and city alike. She will suggest car-free routes and secret spots to explore on your complimentary bicycle, or on foot if you prefer (it is 25 minutes' walk along the river to the Ponte Vecchio). Afterwards, kick off your shoes and slink across the manicured lawn to the groovy lounge, where an honesty bar sits among coffee tables strewn with architecture books and objets d'art. Or fix a fruit salad in your corian-topped kitchen (most suites have their own) and swing in a hammock by the pool. Bliss.

Highs

• A haven of laid-back and tranquil minimalism away from the bustle of the city centre
• Lots of outside space, rare in Florence: gorgeous gardens and a slimline pool
• Glamorous and enlightening hostesses, Alice Nardi and Maria Novella
• Wonderful communal lounge with DVD/CD library, vast leather sofa and flickering fires in winter
• Super-cool contemporary interiors in a historic building
• Vintage bikes thrown in for free

Lows

• It's a 30-minute walk from the city centre, but we loved getting away from the tour groups
• Breakfast was a little unimaginative
• It's a 15-minute walk or short taxi ride to the nearest restaurant (great for walking off a large Tuscan meal, though)
• No 24-hour service - but the exceptional staff are on hand from 8am to 8pm