Rive Droite

Huge, uber-comfortable rooms in a villa-style hotel, perched on a riverbank overlooking Luang Prabang

Rive Droite quite literally sets itself apart from Luang Prabang, via the wide, fast-flowing Nam Khan River. Luckily, the hotel's wooden boat is on-hand to ferry you back and forth, which gives you a gorgeous first glimpse of the residence, encased by organic gardens and huge palms. The bamboo steps up from shore are a bit of a hike, but the pay-off is a luxurious ambiance, very much like that of a private villa, with the bonus of excellent service.

This second project by Ivan Scholte (the first, sophisticated Apsara across the river), is a more refined undertaking, and is filled with Ivan’s favourite pieces from his travels: glass Buddhas, glowing Vietnamese lanterns, and designer wallpaper from Sussex. The 9 bedrooms are airy, vastly comfortable affairs with French doors leading to terraces overlooking the pool. This long sliver of emerald water is sublime and quite the envy of the neighbours on the peninsula, where Heritage laws prohibit pools.

Don’t get too horizontal, however, as Luang Prabang, a World Heritage City, offers a huge amount; we loved its flower-filled streets with ornate temples at every turn. It’s unbelievably picturesque, with traditional Lao businesses sitting harmoniously alongside upmarket restaurants, and Buddhist culture pervading the spas, boutiques and galleries. And this is the perfect base to dip in and out of it all.

Highs

• The secluded, intimate feel of the hotel, due to its small size and personal service
• Blissfully away from the madding crowds, yet just minutes from Luang Prabang by private boat
• Romantic, spacious rooms with large balconies, outdoor daybeds and tubs-for-two in the bathrooms
• Fantastic food, especially the Laos set dinner
• Rising at dawn to watch the procession of orange-robed monks receiving alms from kneeling locals (touristy but we enjoyed it) - then whizzing back on the boat for a well-deserved breakfast

Lows

• Some might find being out-of-town inconvenient, especially if you don't like boats and therefore need to get across the river by road (approx 20 mins)
• Steep, uneven steps up to the hotel are not suitable for the unfit
• Noise from the road and village behind the hotel is audible in the rooms