Saiaz Getaria

A peaceful hotel tucked away in the old streets of this popular seaside town, with ocean views from several rooms

The Basque people love Getaria - whenever you mention it, they break out in nostalgic smiles as if remembering the happiest days of their life. And when you get here, you see why. It’s a cute little place, with a happy vibe and a lovely beach that’s popular with locals at weekends. Potter about and you find a small harbour for local fishing boats, some good restaurants that serve the freshest fish, and a small marina that’s home to a clutch of posh yachts; day trips over to San Sebastián can be arranged.

As for this lovely hotel, it sits on a narrow street at the top of the Old Town, with views to the west of sea and sky. The house dates from the 15th century and was probably a defence of sorts, as several arrow slits survive. Behind its façade of golden stone you find a pretty mix of old and new: mullioned windows, wood and antiques mixed with bright rugs and throws. Prices are great and local staff go the extra mile. There are 19 attractive bedrooms, which all have a warm, homely feel. Some are big, others smaller; several have magnificent sea views (the house stands at the top of a cliff, with waves rolling in below). There’s a big sitting room that looks the right way, plus a terrace where we watched the sun go down with a glass of wine in hand. It's popular with couples, but welcoming to families, too. As for the beach and those excellent restaurants, you won’t have to walk far.

Highs

• Rooms with sea views are magical, worth splashing out on
• The Old Town, the cool beach, the fishing boats - there’s lots of character here, and it's a very civilised place to do very little. And the Cristóbal Balenciaga museum is heaven for fashionistas
• Elkano, one of the Basque region's best restaurants, is only 50 paces from the front door
• Monte de San Antón (the hill that rolls into the sea; known as the Mouse of Getaria) is a great spot to sit and watch the sun go down
• Beautiful San Sebastián is only 20 minutes away by car

Lows

• This is a popular hotel in a popular town - book early
• Breakfast is the only meal served, and if you don’t eat fish, the choice on local menus will be limited
• The hotel only has 2 parking spots, and a small charge applies, but you can park for free in a couple of streets close by
• The one-way system in town can be confusing; follow directions to the hotel explicitly or you may get lost
• Expect some noise to rise from the narrow street