Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef

A luxurious tented eco-lodge set amongst the dunes a few metres from Ningaloo Reef, an hour south of Exmouth

As with much in Western Australia, Sal Salis redefines remote: 66km from Exmouth, 1,270km north of Perth, uniquely within the boundary of Cape Range National Park and off-grid for mobile phones, internet and mains electricity. With this in mind, don’t expect a glittering grand entrance; like all the best places there are barely any signs, you just have to know that you’ve arrived. Park amongst the dunes at South Mandu beach, leave sharp suits, killer heels, Burberry baggage and BlackBerries behind, and meander the last 800m up the shore through acacia brush, kangaroo and emu tracks. Soon, a scattering of 9 ochre-coloured safari-chic tents sporting storm lanterns and hammocks appears along the shore, all set a stone’s throw from brilliant white sand, sparkling blue Indian Ocean and the tantalising corals of Ningaloo Reef.

Guided shore snorkelling reveals black-tipped reef sharks, green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles, and myriad temperate and tropical fish. Beyond the breakers, whale sharks and humpback whales chart an annual migratory passage, whilst elsewhere manta rays cruise the nutrient-rich coastal currents. Unforgettable.

Highs

• Location - Ningaloo is Australia’s largest fringing reef and the world’s only such coral community pitched a short swim from the mainland
• Staff - youthful, laid back but professional with it, eager to share their knowledge and enthusiasm for Cape Range’s wildlife and natural history
• Breakfast - enjoying fresh coffee and croissants whilst humpback whales breach a short distance offshore beats a full English
• Dinner - fine dining within earshot of the ocean, lit by oil lamps and overseen by a canopy of stars
• Some of the most comfortable beds on Earth

Lows

• Location - you are miles away from most anywhere
• Fresh water - only 20L per tent per day for showering and washing
• Power - all electricity is generated by photovoltaic arrays whose extent is limited by national park regulations. No fans, air con, hairdryers or even power sockets in guest tents
• Expensive - although all meals, an open bar and guided activities are included, the nightly tariff will still make your eyes water
• No mobile reception - not necessarily a bad thing but something to be aware of