Samode Haveli

A majestic old mansion tucked away in the heart of the old city - gardens, courtyards and terraces abound

A haveli is a grand house with inner courtyards built by wealthy merchants or nobility as a testimony to their status. This 200-year-old gem, the townhouse of the royal family of Samode, is one of the more spectacular and authentic examples. Home to some fabulous frescoes and murals, and blessed with a leafy garden, it's difficult to believe that from this sanctuary you can stroll out into the bustling city streets of Jaipur.

Rooms and suites are scattered throughout the haveli and each one is unique. The whole place exudes romance, and the gentle and caring staff do their utmost to look after your every whim. Best of all, since the hotel doesn't allow groups, a sense of peace prevails. With its mix of history, simple style and unusual features (including an elephant ramp at the entrance, constructed for a family wedding in the 1940s), Samode Haveli is the reigning hip heritage hotel in Jaipur.

Highs

• The gorgeous pool is one of the largest and prettiest in Jaipur, with an excellent pool bar
• The lovely gardens have burbling fountains and ornate courtyards where dinners are served by candlelight in the warmer months
• The feel throughout is one of delightful faded grandeur, with many alcoves for lounging around
• No large groups are accepted in order to maintain the serenity
• We revisited in 2012 and felt this was still the best heritage hotel in town thanks to massive investment and refurbishment

Lows

• You can hear city noise at night (though it's only really noticeable in the garden)
• The courtyard Deluxe Rooms sometimes feel close to the bustle of the communal areas, and some may find the mirrored Sheesh Mahal Suites striking but a little claustrophobic
• Think unique and charming rather than top-notch luxury; service can occasionally be a little slow
• It's often busy, especially during high season, so make sure you book well in advance