Samode Palace

Majestic and rambling fairytale palace nestled into the Aravalli Hills, overlooking a traditional rural village

If you've always wanted to be treated like royalty or grown up longing to be a princess, you've come to the right palace. The 150-year-old Samode Palace stands in serene sprawling splendour on a hilltop at the end of a dusty road, an hour's drive from Jaipur. A magnificent example of Rajput-Mughal architecture, it boasts some of the finest frescoes and mirror-work in Rajasthan. We came for rest and recuperation and found ourselves on our own Royal Progress through endless wings, terraces, courtyards and levels, marvelling at lavish creations like the extravagantly painted Durbar Hall and breathtaking Sheesh Mahal. Twisting staircases and painted corridors open up to stunning rooms and suites, which had been beautifully refurbished when we revisited in 2008.

After a day's sightseeing, sip a cool drink by the marble-mosaic pool, wander through the tranquil walled garden, unwind with an Ayurvedic massage or sit by the rooftop infinity pool to watch the sun set, after which evening lights transform the palace into a fairyland.

Highs

• The palace has been meticulously restored to accentuate the wonderful architecture and grand scale
• There are amazing mosaics and frescoes
• Camel safaris in the bush at sunset are an unforgettable experience
• The wine list is superb and the cuisine is excellent
• This is an ideal place to rejuvenate and relax, so perfect for a honeymoon - especially if you book into one of the sumptuous Royal Suites

Lows

• It can be noisy with groups
• It's a remote location (though others would consider this an advantage)
• The Deluxe Rooms can be dark - opt for a suite
• It's so opulent it could inspire reverence rather than relaxation
• Some consider it to be more commercialised than other heritage hotels