Sher Bagh

The ultimate in authentic, genuine, tented jungle camps, perfect for game viewing and spotting the lucky tiger

It’s pretty hard to call it camping when you’re cocooned in a rather luxurious white linen tent that’s modelled after the Maharajah of Jodhpur’s hunting hut. Unlike the colonial days, you won’t be shooting tigers - except with a camera - but everything else about Sher Bagh is modelled to make you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time, and the camp’s location next to Ranthambhore National Park means you may well glimpse of one of these glorious creatures during your stay.

The camp’s 12 tents are set in an arc around an immaculately clipped green lawn. Inside, they’re filled with character: old-style lanterns by the wooden beds, a writing desk complete with a ticklist of animals to spot, and decorative copper in the bathroom. Saunter over to the main lodge and you’ll find a host of fabulous tiger photos (all taken by owner Jaisal Singh or his wife Anjali), clusters of khaki safari hats and wooden walking sticks, and an open-air bar serving Bloody Marys before lunch and cigars afterwards. It’s slightly tongue in cheek but genuinely fabulous. A must-visit.

Highs

• The camp managers are utterly charming, attentively looking after every guest, even writing letters of welcome
• There's a wonderful atmosphere at night: a starry sky, the pathways lit by fire torches and everyone sitting around the campfire
• The food is excellent in every way - and there's lots of it!
• The wildlife is spectacular: as the camp borders the national park, the site itself is frequented by over 350 species of birds, antelope and wild boar. Even leopard and tigers have been spotted or heard near the camp
• Ranthambhore is the only fully fledged wildlife park in Rajasthan which fits easily into an itinerary: it’s easily accessed from Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Kota
• There's a lovely swimming pool

Lows

• It's a bit off the beaten track - although you can arrive by train and get collected from the station, the journey is a bit stressful. Most people use a driver from Jaipur/Delhi
• Tiger safaris need to be booked at least 6-8 weeks in advance