Siolim House

Experience the splendour of a 17th-century Indo-Portuguese casa palacio, tucked away in a charming north Goan village, off the tourist trail

This palatial 300-year-old house once belonged to the Governor of Macau, but like many of Goa’s colonial relics, it was abandoned and left to ruin. Thankfully, this one was saved and has been lovingly restored, with such meticulous attention to detail that it earned a Unesco Heritage award. Some of the windowpanes are made of mother-of-pearl and the walls are traditional shell and lime plaster; there are marble and porcelain details, tall windows with shades and shutters, and a cool inner courtyard lined with pillars. Antique furniture mixes well with contemporary wrought-iron pieces designed by the owner Varun Sood.

On the doorstep of Siolim village and the Chapora River, the grand old manor whisks you back to the days of Portuguese Goa. But the rooms are splendid and the atmosphere is easy, laid-back and homely - the ideal place to relax and unwind away from the crowds (the nearest beach is a 10-minute drive). There are pretty gardens and a swimming pool. And Little Siolim, a short walk through the village, offers a villa annexe with 3 more rooms for B&B or self-catering.

Highs

• Most of the rooms (including the bathrooms) are vast, with lovely tiled floors and high beamed ceilings
• Set in lush gardens on a quiet back road, it’s a world away from the beach-crowd touts and tourists
• There's a lovely slate-lined pool and a spa pavilion - the latter offering good-value Ayurvedic massages and treatments
• It’s more home than hotel and its laid-back nature engenders a house-party atmosphere
• The staff, overseen by the efficient house manager Alex, are friendly and attentive
• You can enjoy good, home-cooked meals at reasonable prices

Lows

• The superior suites don’t have air conditioning, though you’ll only really miss it during April and May
• The plastic showers in the suites don’t look great, but the building’s heritage status makes it difficult to go too slick or modern
• You'll need a car to reach the beaches and nightlife, if that’s what you want
• Nearby Little Siolim is right on a busy through road and can be quite noisy, particularly during the day