Skites
near Ouranoupolis, Halkidiki, Greece
A laid-back bohemian retreat near mystical Mount Athos where you can switch off in style
When Pola Bohn first discovered this secluded beach less than a
kilometre from Mount Athos in the 1960s, it was a 4-hour drive from
Thessaloniki, mostly down bumpy dirt roads. A new highway has cut
the journey in half, but Skites - the 25-room guesthouse Pola built
in 1989 - still feels blissfully off the beaten track. The road
that divides the low-slung rooms and lush fragrant gardens from the
pool bar and pebble beach is still unpaved. And the discreet metal
sign is easy to miss (we drove past it twice). So it comes as
something of a surprise to hear Buena Vista Social Club drifting
from the terrace and to see spinach soufflé on the
menu.
Pola’s daughter Karin, who now runs Skites, has infused the
place with her arty personality. There are chandeliers from Morocco
(where she grew up), candelabras from nearby monasteries, lace
curtains from local farmhouses, and hand-made driftwood sculptures.
Rooms are pared down to the essentials, but the welcoming
communal areas and pool are where you’ll spend most of your
time. If you want to head out, it’s just a short walk to the
small town of Ouranoupolis, which is the jumping off point for
Mount Athos - the men-only monastic republic established in 963 and
unchanged for centuries. With its wonderfully restorative,
meditative atmosphere, Skites is about as close to this as you can
get: ideal for solitary retreats or romantic escapes.
Reviewed by Rachel Howard
Last updated 11 May 2012
Highs
- The remote setting and relaxed staff create an atmosphere of absolute calm
- Alfresco restaurant serving delicious Meditarrean food
- Lashings of personality in the eclectic décor - no Ikea or identikit furnishings here
- The beach bar is magical at sunset and by moonlight; in summer Karin holds poetry readings and chamber concerts here
- Seeing the historic Unesco-listed monasteries of Mount Athos either up close (men only; permit needed) or from a boat cruise
Lows
- Rooms are not remotely luxurious, despite relatively high prices
- Service can be patchy - the staff prefer to leave you in peace
- The small beach is mostly rocky, though the sea is a wonderful translucent green (with a wooden jetty for diving) and there are sandy beaches in nearby Ouranoupolis
