Spain: Valencia: Overview

Why go?

Valencia is a city on the cusp, if not of greatness, at least of grabbing some of the attention from her sister cities of Barcelona and Madrid. However, it took a land-locked country to point out her best asset: the sea. When Switzerland won the 2003 America’s Cup it had to, for obvious reasons, find a surrogate host for the next competition. Four years later, Valencia rose to the challenge, investing €500 million in transforming her neglected waterfront and polluted beaches to a sophisticated and sparkling port worthy of hosting the world’s premier yachting race.

It’s not the first time that Valencia has created something out of nearly nothing. Ten years ago, a mass of disused marshland became the site of a fantastically futuristic construction: the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (The City of Arts and Sciences). Walking about the 350,000 square metre complex is like strolling on the set of a science-fiction film, or visiting the spectacular capital of another, far superior planet. Valencians are justifiably proud of this dazzling attraction, especially as it was designed by a local architect, Santiago Calatrava.

But it’s not all gleaming white structures and shiny new marinas – wander through the squares and streets of Valencia’s Centro Histórico to see the influence of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque building styles, from the cathedral on Plaza de la Reina to the Unesco World Heritage site of La Lonja. The late 19th century Modernista movement, popularised by Anton Gaudi, flourishes here too – the bustling Mercado Central, Europe’s largest covered market, is a wonderful example. Which brings us to food and, after oranges, Valencia’s most famous export: paella. From beachfront restaurants to pavement cafes, this tasty rice dish is ubiquitous and best enjoyed in the sunshine with a glass of vino rosado.

Any downsides?

Spain’s third-largest city is flat, sprawling and can feel choked with cars and cranes. In its transitional phase from industrial base to tourist magnet, Valencia doesn’t quite yet have the élan of a star metropolis. Although the 2007 America’s Cup was a great success, only time will tell if it will elevate Valencia into a world-class city.

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  Activities

Sightseeing...

  • Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias: stunning architectural wonder of glass and white concrete hosting a science museum, greenhouse, Imax cinema, aquarium and recently opened arts auditorium (see below)

  • Oceanogràfic: Europe’s largest aquarium, an amazing watery world of underwater tunnels and seascapes… children will be thrilled

  • Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia: Sydney Opera House’s baby sister, both in looks and size; a state-of-the-art facility for music, dance, theatre and large-scale cultural events

  • Veles e Vents: ‘Sails and Winds’ is America’s Cup Building by the marina – the glass and steel structure has loads of bars and restaurants and it’s a great venue to view the races

  • Plaza de la Reina: with its cathedral backdrop (a mix of Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque styles), this pedestrianised square in the Centro Histórico is perfect for people-watching

  • Mercardo Central: the vaulted ceilings in this vast market display the trencadí (broken-tile mosaic) mainstay of the Modernista decorative movement
Festivals...
  • Las Fallas: Valencia goes mad in mid-March when gigantic paper-mâché sculptures are paraded about amidst amazingly wild street partying and nightly fireworks
Shopping...
  • L’Eixample: Valencia’s new, upscale district of bourgeois apartments and designer boutiques is credit card heaven
Beach...
  • Las Arenas & La Malvarrosa: not one, but two wide sandy beaches, with a 3km promenade alongside; make sure you stop for a seafront paella
Park…
  • Jardines del Turia: the former riverbed of the River Turia is now a verdant 9km ring of trees, trails, lawns and playgrounds
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