Sunbeam

Three beautiful guest rooms in the eclectic Assagao home of flamboyant Indian stylist Jivi Sethi

Sunbeam is a joyous expression of its owner Jivi’s larger-than-life personality. Hidden amongst trees behind wafting silk pennants, this century-old family house in one of North Goa's prettiest villages has been uniquely restyled. Theatrical backdrops, a silver-skeleton chair, myriad mirrors, red candles and wall-hangings, little disco balls and even 3 red, baby-girl dresses serving as lampshades, all sit surreally, yet peacefully, amongst the jungly stepped gardens and richly carved Goan antiques.

Two of the guest bedrooms open off the entrance courtyard as part of the cool, shady Old House. The third is in the bright white new block on the level above, next to Jivi’s own funky, modernist pad. The red, black and turquoise swimming pool is something else again. With a bold, lingam feature fountain at one end and theatrical backdrop at the other, it could have climbed straight out of a film set. Spotlit at night, it’s a wonderfully exotic place to swim after dark.

It’s most fun to stay here when the master is at home, though the dignified Krishna (Jivi’s right-hand man who has been called ‘the best cook in India’) and 5 other staff will still do a great job of looking after you if he’s not. Design-loving couples and small families will love it.

Highs

• The theatricality, and the cornucopia of collected treasures and family heirlooms
• Jivi himself – ebullient, fascinating company and clearly possessing a big, warm heart
• The dancing light created by the little garden-hung mirror plates and disco balls
• Being close to Goa's loveliest beaches
• Krishna’s delicious food and loving touches like fresh flour stencils on the courtyard paving stones, thermos coffee/tea pots with feature cosies, and delicate, beaded glass-covers to keep out bugs

Lows

• A lack of direct sunlight in the Old House rooms until late afternoon can make them a little gloomy
• The need for reliable lights along the rough laterite steps up to the higher level after dark
• Lots of dry leaves fall from the surrounding jungle canopy, which can make the garden look a little unkempt
• Lots of power-cuts, particularly on Sundays
• Plastic-weave bins full of little holes, so not good for emptying ashtrays!