Surya Samudra

Beautiful and luxurious cliff-top resort with glossy heritage cottages, an Ayurvedic spa, restaurants and an infinity pool looking out over the stunning sea

If you long to luxuriate in a peaceful, exotic beachside setting then Surya Samudra is for you. Revamped and reopened in December 2009, it’s set in 20 acres of landscaped gardens. The polished dark-wood cottages, reconstituted by local craftsmen from 100-year-old traditional Keralan homes, are surrounded by coconut plantations. Set well apart, they perch on a hillside overlooking the Arabian Sea. Perfect for honeymooning, deep relaxation or working on your next opus, all have been soundproofed and are beautifully appointed, with your own writing desk should you feel inspired.

While the 2 beaches to either side of the rocky promontory on which the hotel sits are not private, they are very quiet and secluded. There's also a delicious jade-coloured infinity pool with underwater sculptures which segues into the ocean below, plus a dedicated Ayurvedic spa and cliff-edge yoga platform for reducing you to a puddle of serenity. The food served up in the 2 sea-view restaurants (or anywhere else you like) is a tasty feast of Keralan and Western dishes. And, as an added bonus, you can rest assured that the management is dedicated to minimising the hotel’s environmental footprint.

Highs

• Cooling sea breezes, a gorgeous pool, sea views and unbeatable sunsets
• The Karl Damschen-designed wooden cottages combine beauty and privacy - cool and dark when the shutters are closed, bright and cheerful when they’re open
• The elegantly-appointed Spa Niraamaya offers a comprehensive choice of Ayurvedic treatments and massages, available indoors or in a seaside gazebo
• You’re next to 2 secluded and near-private beaches, yet only 12km from the hustle and bustle of Kovalam
• A full refurbishment (December 2009) has raised the luxury stakes and added all the mod cons

Lows

• The landscaped gardens are still in a fledgling stage, and gaps between paving stones can snag heels
• The grounds rise fairly steeply up the hill and are low-lit at night, but there are 2 electric buggies for guests and, when coming from reception, an escort with a torch
• The sea has strong currents and pounding waves, so it can be too dangerous for swimming
• Feedback about service has been mixed, but the manager is charming and has promised to remedy this