Tamarind Village

A welcoming oasis of calm amidst the ornate temples, exotic bazaars, food stalls and night markets of Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is a mighty urban sprawl around a seductive square mile of charm. Naturally, most visitors congregate there, and right in the heart of the old city, where you’d expect it to be noisiest and hottest, is this oasis of cool and calm. Built around a 200-year old tamarind tree, approached through a long bamboo tunnel, this collection of buildings with verdant courtyards inspired by rural temple cloisters is a gem of a hotel. Designed by the same people as the Rachamankha but with simpler materials and more humility, it surrenders some right angles to the limitations of the plot and some demands on the furniture to budget concerns, but this is hardly a problem. More importantly, it's now owned by people who understand the hotel business (cynics might say a little too well).

Simple bedrooms that make the best use of the limited space, a large swimming pool, an unbeatable breakfast buffet and friendly staff combine to make this a top choice in Chiang Mai.

Highs

• The atmosphere is leafy, almost rural
• It's within walking distance of markets, river and temples
• It's surprisingly quiet at night
• Plunging into the swimming pool, which is designed like a lotus pond, and set among trees providing dappled shade, is delightfully cooling

Lows

• It's often full, so deckchairs and towel space can be at a premium
• Rooms are a bit small and basic
• The restaurant, spilling out attractively on the rim of the pool, is quite steeply priced
• The spa seems a little expensive: more affordable options are available nearby