The Bagh

Tranquil heritage hotel set in a 12-acre garden, an hour from Agra and the Taj Mahal

There’s a nice sense of tranquility and space at The Bagh, with 3 big residences and a sprinkling of communal buildings, all set in 12 acres of gardens. After the hustle of Agra and the Taj Mahal, it’s a haven. And, if you want to get even further away from it all, nearby Keoladeo Ghana National Park hides over 350 kinds of birds and 50 species of mammal.

Its centrepiece is a 200-year-old charbagh, a traditional Islamic garden bisected by channels of water. The design, which mirrors that of the Taj Mahal gardens, harks back to the Mughal Emperors of the 16th century. Its overgrown fruit trees tower over the walkways - an impressive sight, although this can make the place feel eerily deserted, especially when the smog sets in! Around it lies a group of low buildings clad in pink or white sandstone. They’re tired on the outside, but look beyond - they gleam with marble and lovely detail inside. Altogether they house 3 residences, a restaurant, a café, a gym, a library with botanical books, a resident naturalist and a garage of vintage cars.

Highs

• This is our recommended base for a visit to Agra and the Taj Mahal
• Service is excellent - staff are friendly and professional, and thankfully not obsequious
• There's beautiful detail throughout - mosaic floors, chandeliers and pearl-inlaid furniture
• It's very peaceful and relaxing
• Bird-watching wonders are all around, including the nearby park of Keoladeo Ghana
• Environmental measures include solar heating, water harvesting from an artisan well, an eco-friendly generator and feeding leftovers to animals

Lows

• When we last visited the décor was rather tired, but a refurb has since taken place
• It's lacking in atmosphere - the big size of the place means you often feel isolated, and there’s no nightlife to speak of
• The ‘spa’ is unimpressive, but the reflexology massages are very good
• Some people feel it's overpriced