The Bath Arms

An ivy-clad inn on the Longleat Estate, with a characterful restaurant and very fetching rooms

Longleat's lions roar tantalizingly close by and at feeding time you can hear the sea lions. But it isn't only families who pitch up at the Bath Arms; walkers, foodies and locals like it too. Enter through a small flagged hall scented with lilies to find a lounge bar with a striped sofa, and a cluster of rooms with kilims on planked floors; dogs doze by the fire, guests chat over a pint of local ale or an elegant meal. The setting is the sleepy estate village of Horningsham, with views of Wiltshire’s hills and a small triangular green with a red telephone box.

Up a warren of pale (but not immaculate) carpeted stairs are 10 boho-chic bedrooms; a further 5 sit in a separate Garden Wing. The modish Bath Arms is leased from the eccentric Lord Bath, and a mood of bohemian luxury prevails. Some bedrooms are small, some large, but all are delightfully quirky. Painted boxes from Rajasthan, gleaming marquetry from Morocco, a racy Kama Sutra mural… even the bath oils have an exotic tang. Huge beds and tranquility banish insomnia, and a locally sourced breakfast sets you up for the day.

Highs

• When we revisited in 2012, we loved the seasonal food in the restaurant, and even though it was a Monday night, the pub tables were full of locals eating the bar food; always a good sign
• Strolling through a Capability Brown Pleasure Walk to the Longleat mansion and its landscaped grounds
• Staff are attentive and good-humoured
• The atmosphere is relaxing and cheerful; the décor eccentric yet stylish
• Great for couples or friends, and there's a warm welcome for families, with children's menus and extra beds

Lows

• Signs of wear and tear on carpets and doors
• Garden Wing bedrooms are by the car park, but most open onto a lawn and have a nice cottage-y feel. Walls are thin in this building and it's popular with families so couples may prefer the main building
• Bathrooms in the main building are quirky and old, and water pressure/temperature can be a little temperamental. A full refurbishment is underway
• The public bars are on the small side, and the back one has a large TV constantly showing promotional videos; we found it distracting and a bit naff
• Be sure not to confuse this for the Bath Arms at Crockerton, also on the Longleat estate!