The Gunton Arms

Personality-packed rural pub with 8 rooms, stunning food and contemporary art, on a historic estate in north Norfolk

The Gunton Arms is a cross between a well-heeled private house and a supremely comfortable pub. The world-renowned art dealer Ivor Braka and his artist wife Sarah Graham used to call it their local, until they decided to make the arrangement a bit cosier, and bought it. After a lengthy and impressive renovation, it reopened in November 2011. The pub remains popular with locals, the restaurant is outstanding, and the 8 bedrooms are comfortable and characterful; best of all, the whole show is run with a very generous spirit.

Over your inspirational supper, cooked expertly by Stuart Tattersall, former head chef at Mark Hix's London restaurants, there’s so much to talk about that your conversation will never run dry: from the Damien Hirsts and Gilbert & George canvases lining the walls, to the ancient elk above the fire. Come here for everything you didn’t expect from Norfolk - a dash of high society, controversial art themed around sex and death, and foodie heaven - which perfectly complements the ravishing scenery, historic park and quiet beaches nearby. Don’t tell everyone, but this part of the UK is fast becoming our secret hotspot.

Highs

• A gloriously peaceful setting, adjacent to a 1,000-acre deer park
• Fabulous food in hearty portions, locally sourced if possible. There's venison from the estate and Cromer crab, and the steaks are excellent. Well priced, too
• Charming rooms, with extraordinary attention to detail
• We loved the provocative art, and the fact that there's a Tracey Emin in the Ladies'
• Full of character: Persian carpets, battered leather armchairs and open fires

Lows

• A few teething issues (staff are more used to running a big restaurant than a small hotel), but we're confident they will settle in time
• Dogs are allowed in-rooms; a low for some
• It's not a hotel, it's a pub with rooms (the emphasis is on the food rather than providing service for those staying the night)
• No twin rooms, and rooms above the bar are a bit noisy (Superior Doubles Langtry and Harbord)
• Hard to find in the dark - but new lighting and signage is planned