The Halkin

One of London's first contemporary-design hotels still has lots going for it: cosseting bedrooms, top Thai cuisine and a quiet location amid retail heaven

If the Metropolitan on Park Lane is the glam young thing of the COMO family, then the Halkin is the desirable older sister: understatedly classy, with a chic Belgravia address, and still naturally beautiful after 19 years of hard work. It must be the heritage. Like the COMO brand (an acronym for mother and daughter Christina and Melissa Ong, and coincidentally an Italian lake), the hotel combines impeccable Asian roots with timeless Milanese design.

Long arcs of spotlit corridor, lined with seemingly impenetrable black-corrugated walls, sweep like a cruise ship along 5 floors of perfectly muffled, cossetingly creamy bedrooms. But there's no danger of cabin fever here: 33-45 sq.m. of floorspace, tall double-glazed windows and the very best of finishings - burlwood panelling, Italian-wool carpets and enough marble in the huge bathrooms to sink the QE2. Downstairs is a long lobby bristling with Armani-clad staff, an adjoining bar with a scattering of multi-lingual businessmen and upscale tourists, and Nahm, the teak-and-gold Thai restaurant pioneered by acclaimed Aussie chef David Thompson.

Highs

• The classic Italian design - launched in 1991 - has stood the test of time: bedrooms feel smart, linens are sumptuous and all furnishing are regularly refreshed
• Beautiful bathrooms with big bathtubs, power showers and gorgeous COMO Shambhala products to squabble over
• The friendly yet professional service is outstanding; nothing is too much trouble
• Perfect for diplomats (this is the heart of embassy-land), shoppers (Harrods and Harvey Nichols await), joggers (Hyde Park is on your doorstep) and anyone staying over near Victoria
• And, if you want to mingle at the Met, Halkin guests get priority reservations at Nobu and the Met Bar

Lows

• It lacks the buzz of some London hotels - not so good for people-watching or party types
• While the rooms are likely to suit business travellers, others may feel that they lack flair
• It's not cheap, but guests all seem to say it's worth the cost (and there are regular offers through i-escape)