The Observatory Hotel

An ultra-indulgent urban retreat in the Rocks district, filled with timeless grace, old school style and all the trimmings of a world-class hotel

This is blue blazer, signet ring and white linen territory for lovers of golf, yachting and the finest things in life. Minimalism is checked in at the door and replaced with contemporary decadence. Couches are built to sink into; books, globes, gilt edged clocks, indoor palms and ceramics provide a library-like atmosphere of sophisticated relaxation.

All palates are catered for. There's fine French-Japanese dining at Galileo Restaurant; clubby cocktails and comfort food at the Globe Bar. Elegant bedrooms range from vast to positively regal, with silk wallpaper and mahogany armoires. The marble foyer has an oval atrium balcony and a discreet reception desk for a paparazzi-free check in. In the basement spa is an indoor swimming pool beneath a domed fibre-optic ceiling, whose twinkling stars mimic the Southern Hemisphere night sky. And the service, as at country cousin Lilianfels, is truly impeccable. A world-class city hotel, up there with the Ritz and Cipriani, yet without being stuffy.

Highs

• Great location in the historic Rocks district, overlooking Walsh Bay and near the CBD: far from the madding crowd, but within walking distance of all that is good about Sydney
• Five-star service and then some (it can't stop winning the Condé Nast 'Best Service' award)
• Luxurious bedrooms and mammoth bathrooms
• Every comfort under the Southern Stars: wireless roaming, whirlpool tubs, Cuban cigars in every shape and size

Lows

• Cheaper rooms have not-so-observatorial views over the inner city
• World-class luxury and service ensure world-class prices
• You need to book ahead for the day spa, as it's popular among non-residents too
• Nice indoor swimming pool – shame it wasn't put on the roof (OK, we're getting picky now)