The Old Courtyard Hotel

Eating

Owner Rose and her husband are both chefs and put a lot of thought into the menu. It changes often, but you’ll always find Keralan specialties such as catch-of-the-day fish wrapped in banana leaves and pork vindaloo alongside Western favourites like spaghetti, tortilla, steaks and apple crumble. All meals are eaten Mediterranean-style in the courtyard or, particularly during the monsoon, in the shade of the old stable arches alongside. The kitchen is open all day, but there’s no room service or alcohol licence as yet.

Breakfast can be a familiar continental spread or an Indian kick-starter (the options change each day of the week to provide variety) - our fresh fruit, watermelon juice and poor (a fried wholewheat puff-pocket) with potato curry was a great eye-opener. For lunch we tucked into gazpacho, while our dinner of Malabar prawn curry packed a deliciously spicy punch. For a whole new taste sensation, try the ‘Keralan-style buttermilk’, a local digestive made with curry leaves, ginger, green chillies and salt.

Nearby dining alternatives include the boutique Brunton Boatyard Hotel, or Dal Roti restaurant (famous for its North Indian food). The many waterfront stalls which cook your chosen catch-of-the-day as you watch are also highly-recommended.