The Old Courtyard Hotel

Rooms

All 8 guest rooms overlook the central courtyard, 7 of them reached by an ancient teak staircase complete with eaten-away holes (though we’re assured it’s checked regularly and is completely safe!). They range in size, with the largest being the Grand Suite complete with sitting room, a wealth of antiques and a tiny balcony off its bathroom. The 8th bedroom is the smallest and is reached via its own metal spiral staircase at the other end of the courtyard - it’s slightly poky but a great find for those on a budget.

All rooms are charming, comfortable and elegant, with varnished wooden floors and ceilings, mosquito-netted four-poster beds, antique furniture, ensuite bathrooms and air conditioning. The Superior Rooms also have cable TV and mini-refrigerators, while the Deluxe Rooms and Suites have tea and coffee making facilities. They're not in immaculate condition (think historic and comfortable rather than luxurious) but the reasonable rates reflect this.

Whichever room you book, say hello to the resident ghost (who we think must have moved in during the 7 years between the departure of the rather eccentric former owner Lily Koder and the arrival of Rose and Jacob in 1999). But don’t worry. The overall ambience is positive and relaxed - a relief after the frenetic pace of Fort Cochin.