Ti Kaye

A well-run, friendly resort of 33 sea-facing cottages, set on a lush hillside above a remote, sandy beach with great diving

Beautiful as it is, St. Lucia is becoming increasingly popular, with more direct flights and cruise ships arriving every year. If you want to escape to a remote beachside, head for the fishing village of Anse la Raye midway between Soufriere and Castries. Down a bumpy track, tucked above the remote sandy beach of Anse Cochon, is the secluded resort of Ti Kaye.

It’s definitely a resort rather than a guesthouse and is much more ‘scrubbed up’ than your usual Caribbean gingerbread hotel, but it’s small (33 cottages, 12 with their own plunge pools) and refreshingly personal. Ti Kaye means 'little house' in Creole, and this applies both to the accommodation - private bungalows spread over the wooded hillside - and to the ambiance, which is intimate and familiar. You don’t need to go on any of the excursions on offer (though they're well-organised and priced, and it’s sometimes a treat not to have to arrange things for yourself), nor eat any meals there if you don’t want to (though we found the food excellent). The guests are a mix of ages and backgrounds, predominantly north American, and the staff are genuinely friendly. We came feeling unsure, and left as converts.

Highs

• The tasteful, secluded, sea-facing bungalows all have hammocks and outdoor showers; some also have plunge pools
• A wide range of excursions are available, including rainforest hikes, weekly trips to Anse la Raye for a jump-up and street food and diving to local wrecks and walls
• The friendly staff generate a lazy, indulgent mood around the pool and bar
• The fantastic sunsets are accompanied by happy hour cocktails
• It’s all reasonably priced by Caribbean standards

Lows

• It’s a long and bumpy ride from the main coastal road to the hotel - if you’re hiring a car, opt for a Jeep or similar
• The cottages are spotless but simple. A recent refurb has added smarter bathrooms, but the style is rustic rather than boutique
• The ambiance is aimed at couples and isn’t ideal for solo travellers, though happy hour can get quite sociable
• The beach is gorgeous but you need to walk down 166 steps to get to it
• Be prepared for some day trippers arriving by boat to take advantage of the fantastic snorkelling in the bay