Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa

A revitalising oasis where cool design and attentive service meet against a spectacular desert backdrop

"I love the view from my office," our guide said, as we paused for breath and surveyed the landscape on our 'giant cactus walk'. Indeed, the startlingly blue sky and terracotta mountains, lush green vegetation, rocky path and burbling river make you feel there's nowhere in the world you'd rather be.

But then, tearing yourself away to head back to the hotel and blast away the desert dust under an outdoor shower before taking an aperitif in the open-plan bar isn't so tough. A stylish retreat set in 5 hectares of land just outside the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama, this 32-room hotel is beautifully designed in muted tones of adobe and local materials to blend with its surroundings perfectly. Inside, all is modern and sleek - volcanic rock, llama rugs and local textiles create a soothing interior. Friendly staff pull out all the stops to cater for your every need, from a chilled poolside pisco sour, to a therapeutic massage, to late-night stargazing while laying back on comfy cushions around outdoor fire pits. Amazing.

Highs

• Sympathetic use of traditional materials including dry adobe bricks, wood and bamboo
• Astonishing array of desert landscapes, from moon valleys to salt lakes to spurting and steaming geysers
• Tarif includes a fantastic excursion programme, run by friendly and experienced multilingual guides
• The dramatic scenery and light make it a favourite location for fashion and music shoots: scenes from the last Bond film were filmed here
• Fabulous treatments at the Uma Spa, and excursions allow a window after lunch when you can indulge
• It seems incongruous for a hotel in the desert, but water is plentiful

Lows

• Prices are eyewateringly expensive, but include full board and all excursions
• San Pedro de Atacama sits at 2,400m, and some expeditions take you as high as 4,500m, which can induce altitude sickness - factor in a day or 2 of acclimatisation
• Food choices can be limited, particularly for vegetarians, but the kitchen is happy to rustle up alternative options
• Tourism is a double-edged sword for San Pedro - tour companies and English signage dominate its streets, detracting from its charm - and its sustainability