Torre di Moravola

A remote and magical medieval watchtower with 360º views over ancient hills, restored with super-sleek 21st-century design

The project of architect Christopher Chong and his designer wife Seonaid Mackenzie, Moravola is the result of 9 years of hard slog and an extraordinary shared vision. The bones of this 10th-century Umbrian watchtower – built to protect the hill town of Montone and once inhabited by knights – have been carefully restored to their former glory, while inside the space has been transformed.

Concrete, glass and travertine stone dominate in 7 bedrooms, their monastic simplicity and sleek, architectural details complementing the medieval vibe. Overlooking the Carpini valley where St Francis of Assisi roamed, it’s hard not to slip into hyperbole about the views. Wizened olive trees grow on vertiginous hillsides, thick forests that once hid bandits now thrum with birds and wild boar... indeed the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a shepherdess here. Moravola is a perfect retreat for starry-eyed couples or large groups of friends who can make as much noise as they like. Christopher and Seonaid produce delicious local food and have a relaxed, house-party approach to hosting guests.

Highs

• Peace, beauty and history steeped in every inch of wild, green, mountainous Umbria, still untouched by the Chiantishire tribes
• Moravola is its owners: Seonaid and Christopher are energetic hosts for whom nothing is too much trouble; I got married here, and it all went beautifully
• A seamless blend of ancient and modern: a cantilevered glass Juliet balcony, landscaped terraces, sleek pavilions, a stone fire pool
• The main tower suite with its mezzanine walkway and private terrace
• The spectacular views and sunsets; a sense of being removed from reality

Lows

• If you’re not a fan of fuss-free design or minimalism, this isn’t for you
• Service is friendly to a fault but slightly haphazard – there are no swarms of staff or room service
• Moravola is isolated (a plus in itself but you’ll need a car), and hard to find. The hilltop road leading there is either exhilarating or hair-raising depending on your disposition!