Trasierra

A fabulous country house retreat in the rolling hills north of Seville with a house-party atmosphere and oodles of character

Much history is wrapped into the ancient stones of Trasierra - olives were milled here for centuries and old amphorae stand as a potent witness to Times Past. The genius of Charlotte Scott has been to create an immensely stylish, comfortable country retreat without sacrificing the essentially andaluz character of these beguiling buildings. Arriving here you feel like breathing more deeply, slowing down, and abandoning yourself to all this beauty. The place seems to murmur ‘good book’, ‘late breakfast’ and ‘long siesta’.

The complete antithesis of a chain hotel, Trasierra has been attracting those-in-the-know for a number of years. They come in the knowledge that you can be sociable when you’re in the mood or dine alone beneath the stars if you aren’t. The candlelit dinners are a highlight of any stay. Tables are hidden away beneath rambling vines and wisteria, amongst beds of white roses and lilies... the setting is enchanting and the food is superb.

Highs

• A magical hideaway in the little-known Sierra del Norte
• Bedrooms marry masses of local flavour with more exotic notes - and an occasional hint of Kensington
• Superb food created by the in-house chef
• The charming Scott family, whose home this has been for 3 decades, are very much involved in the day-to-day running
• Worth the trip if only for Cazalla, a sleepy market village with great walking trails in the surrounding hills
• Yoga and massages are available all year round
• A perfect venue for weddings and celebrations

Lows

• Don’t expect fawning staff (it's more of a home than a hotel), but do feel free to help
• Not ideal if you don't want to socialise with other guests and the owners during your stay
• It's pretty remote so you need a car to get the most out of a stay here
• Restaurants and bars in Cazalla are mostly of the cheap-and-cheerful variety - guests tend to dine at Trasierra
• Rooms are sumptuous but not full of gadgets