Tri Yaan Na Ros

An intimate and well-priced boutique B&B just outside Chiang Mai's moated centre

Chiang Mai may boast some of Thailand's best bazaars and temples, but until recently it's been decidedly short of small, stylish lodgings to pamper you afterwards. Built in 2004, the 'Colonial House' is a welcome addition, a homely B&B owned by an architect and his mother, with lush gardens, a small wooden-decked pool, an intimate breakfast-room and 8 compact teak- and silk-clad bedrooms. It's a bit like staying with your Thai grandma (if you had one): lacy curtains, four-poster beds, cats asleep on the veranda, and slightly dusty display cases of Lanna bric-a-brac, all presented with a big smile.

It's located in the silversmiths' quarter, a few blocks south of the moat which ensquares the old city. This means a 5-minute tuk-tuk or cab-ride to the temples of Wat Phra Singh and Wat Chedi Luang, and 10 minutes to the night markets. So it's not for those wanting to walk straight from the bedroom to the bazaar; but it will certainly appeal to anyone wanting a dash of intimate elegance and Lanna charm without paying through the nose.

Highs

• Lush gardens of palm, pandanus and frangipani trees, wonderful for cooling down with a drink at the end of a long day of sightseeing
• A sublime, blue-green-tiled swimming pool – small but not so tiny that you can’t do laps in it
• Plenty of character, with painted Buddha statues, old black-white photos and cupboards full of 'antiques'
• A friendly, intimate ambiance: the architect-owner and his mother live on the premises and run the place more as a passion than a business

Lows

• It's outside the centre – 15 minutes' brisk walk (or 5 minutes by tuk-tuk) to the edge of the old town, double that to the night bazaar (though it is handy for the airport)
• Only breakfast is served, and other restaurants are a tuk-tuk ride away
• The place could do with a good spring clean and a dedicated hotel manager to make the service more consistent
• As always, mosquitoes can be a nuisance in your bedroom – best to spray and close up before going out to dinner
• Rooms are quite small and old-fashioned