Udai Bilas Palace

Live like Rajput royalty in this opulent 19th-century palace on the shores of Lake Gaibsagar - perfect for romance

Nestled in the Aravalli Hills near Udaipur and overlooking the picturesque town of Dungarpur - ‘City of Hills’ - is the enchanting Udai Bilas Palace. This idyllic combination of Art Deco and Rajput architecture is the royal family home of your host, and is the stuff honeymoon dreams are made of.

Built over 125 years ago by a Maharajah with an impeccable taste for art and culture, it was enlarged in the mid 20th century and, apart from its modern infinity pool, it remains steeped in 1940s design splendour. Murals and frescoes adorn its walls; sculptured stone pillars and marble arches steal the eye. Inside, there are mirrored floors, sweeping staircases, African hunting trophies, collectible teak furnishings and four-poster beds; outside are extensive gardens with views of the lake - a habitat for over 120 species of bird. The rooms are enormous, but it's the magical setting that really blows you away. This luxurious timewarp is easy to get to, and a couple of hours from Udaipur for day trips, yet remains off the well-worn trail. A perfect retreat from the 21st century and a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of Rajasthan.

Highs

• This is a truly authentic heritage hotel: each generation of Maharajah has added a new wing, so the rambling building spans several decades
• The vast bedrooms are each decorated differently and all have great views of the lake or mountains
• The stunning dining area features a massive marble table with an illuminated pool in its centre
• Guests get access to the royal family’s 13th-century Old Palace, the Juna Mahal (one of Rajasthan’s best-kept secrets), and their collection of vintage cars
• The service is impeccably attentive (occasionally too much so!)

Lows

• Anti-hunters may be taken aback at the 100+ trophies of endangered species on display throughout the palace. Thankfully, the current Maharajah is a conservationist
• Don’t expect all mod-cons - there are no TVs or phones in the rooms and no internet connection, but you’re only 10 minutes from an internet café
• The buffet-style dinners can feel repetitive
• The odd threadbare rug and paint-peeling corner may not to be to everyone’s taste, but they add to the atmosphere