Urune Hotela

Chic farmhouse set high on a hill in a nature reserve, with huge views, delicious food and great prices

OK, let’s start with the essentials. Views to the front stretch for miles - hill, sky and valley. The feel is deeply rural, yet you’re less than 20km from Bilbao. The silence is magnificent - and the only noise you are likely to encounter is birdsong, a distant tractor or cow bells clanking in neighbouring fields. The house, rescued from neglect in 2009, shines triumphantly. Beautiful interiors mix exposed stone and wooden ceilings with white leather sofas and cool design. As for the 8 lovely bedrooms, they’re an absolute steal.

This was a labour of love. You’d guess a fancy architect did all the work, but owner Alberto renovated with the help of his father and friends. He has left the building to speak for itself. There is very little adornment, but it works a treat. Simplicity and restraint are the hallmarks, along with a strong sense of peace. At the back a shaded terrace offers sanctuary from the heat, though there are loungers in the garden for those who seek the sun. As for the food, we ate the most delicious meal here, Basque food cooked to perfection. Come to escape the world. Wonderful.

Highs

• The serene setting: in the lush Urdaibai biosphere reserve, on the highest slope of the Atxeli Mountain. Fantastic views stretch for miles and there are hikes leading out from the farmhouse
• Great prices, which include afternoon tea
• Alberto and his staff are warm and genuine
• You feel lost to the world, but you're only 30 minutes from Bilbao with its airport, excellent restaurants and world-famous Guggenheim, and just 4km from historical Guernica (Gernika)
• Popular with couples, though families are welcome too

Lows

• No lunches are served, and dinners follow a set menu formula
• We've had feedback that bedroom walls are thin and noise can travel between rooms
• Top-floor rooms can get hot in high summer
• There’s no pool, but lovely beaches aren’t far away
• You’ll need a car