Varikatt Heritage

A calm oasis of colonial elegance and charm at the heart of Trivandrum, with cultured hosts and a heritage homestay feel

Built in the 1850s by an English memsahib who followed her heart to India to marry a colonial tea planter, this spacious bungalow brims with old-world charm. The airy rooms have rosewood antiques, high wood-panelled ceilings, display cabinets of family treasures, mounted deer heads, old lamps and sepia photographs. There's a warm welcome from Colonel Roy Kuncheria (ex-Gurkha Rifles) and his wife, whose family have owned the house since the departure of Miss Blanket and her beau. Colonel Roy does a lot of the cooking too, alongside his sons and the chef, serving up a feast of unique recipes. If you ask, he’ll happily teach you how to make them and give you copies to take away.

Around the house runs a wide veranda, looking out onto a walled garden. There's a badminton court shaded by tall trees, many species of orchids, lush lawns and pathways which are lit at night. Step outside the gate and you're in the centre of bustling Trivandrum, with temples, the Zoological Gardens, a Fair Trade craft market and Kanaka Kunnu Palace all on your doorstep.

Highs

• This is a true heritage home - one of only 3 recognised by the Kerala Tourism Department
• The careful renovations carried out by Colonel Roy and his wife mean you’ll find mod cons such as glass shower rooms and powerful air conditioning
• The suites and rooms are spacious, with high ceilings and handmade rosewood furniture
• You’ll feel very much part of the family as you’re entertained by Colonel Roy’s stories and puzzles over dinner - this much more 'Kerala' than a hotel
• It’s at the hub of the city, close to both Trivandrum railway station (3km away) and the airport (7km away)

Lows

• Don't expect ultra-stylish modern décor - this is simple and stately
• There are no twin rooms
• The street outside is sadly strewn with rubbish and rubble, though Colonel Roy is working to change this
• There’s no water frontage or pool, though excursions to beaches and the backwaters can be arranged
• The garden gets rather dry towards the end of the season, before the monsoon
• Trivandrum can get very hectic and smoggy