Venice
Why go?
World famous as a jewel in aspic and brimming with lovers, exotic
merchandise, art and architectural history, Venice is truly in a
cloistered world of its own. A flotilla of 117 tiny islets floating
in a blue lagoon and connected by some 400 bridges, for 1,000-odd
years it was an independent republic which, thanks to its soft,
reflected light and famed tolerance, was known as ‘La
Serenissima’ or ‘The Most Serene’ .
Today it’s a little less serene, thanks to the 15 million
eager tourists who annually thread through its pretty, narrow
‘calles‘, particularly during the Carnival in February
and ‘high season’ (April to October). But the complete
absence of cars, gentle pace, shimmering light and wealth of beauty
on display still make you feel as if you’ve stepped into a
dream landscape that time forgot.
Daily undermined by the Adriatic tides, Venice was declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 and members of the
ever-dwindling local population complain that, these days, you
can’t bang a nail in without permission in quadruplicate.
This does mean the city’s unrivalled in the architectural
preservation stakes and boasts a complete absence of prosaic,
functional modern buildings, although as a tourist hot-spot which
has to bring in all its goods from the outside, it‘s also
famous as Italy‘s most expensive city and can burn a hole in
your pocket without even trying.
On your first day, lose your sense of time and direction in lazy
wanders through the winding lacework of canals, alleyways and
little hump-backed bridges, stopping for refreshingly cool beers in
summer (or hot chocolates in winter). If you get footsore, grab a
swan’s-eye view of the ancient city from the number 1
vaporetto (public waterbus) as it cruises the length of the
Grand Canal. Some have a small seating-only area at the front,
where those who are first to board can grab a pue with a view.
Round the day off with a communal sunset gondola ride, complete
with serenades, down the Grand Canal.
Next day, shop till you drop in the countless boutiques showcasing
Italian fashion, crafts, antiques, Carnival masks and Dangerous
Liaisons costumes; take a water taxi to the nearby island of Murano
to marvel at the ancient Venetian art of glass-blowing and the
stunning exhibitions of elaborate glassware. Take in an evening
concert on one of the churches, then float back to your
hotel.
Finally, sun yourselves in the pigeon- and tourist-flocked San
Marco square, listening to alternating jazz bands and supping on
delicious, if pricey, snacks at the famous Café Florian,
before tackling the long queue to see the justly-famous wonders of
St Mark’s Basilica. If you're feeling energetic, climb the
tower of San Marco or San Giorgio for views across the rooftops to
the Lido sandstrip. On your last night, spoil yourselves silly with
wildly expensive Bellinis and a gourmet dinner at that favourite
haunt of the rich and famous, Harry’s Bar, where each table
has its very own waiter. After all, when in Venice…