Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa

Part of a French-run 4-star chain in Vietnam, the Victoria is far and away the most comfortable hotel in the mountain town of Sapa

High in Vietnam's northwest highlands at 1650m altitude, the former French hill station of Sapa lies in a spectacular valley framed by mountain peaks, including Indochina’s highest. And this hotel - one of 5 French-run Victoria resorts in Vietnam - gives you the Sapa experience on a completely different level: nothing else in the region compares for comfort, style and service.

The French may long have packed up, but the resort carries on the legacy. Set on a hill in private gardens, yet still in the centre of town, the building resembles an Alpine chalet – from varnished wood interiors and stone fireplaces to cheese fondues for dinner; with a nod to the region's famously colourful hilltribe culture by way of embroidered hemp bedspreads and other ethnic decorations. It's the perfect base to explore some of the area's unique villages and markets, with excellent trekking opportunities – all of which the resort can arrange. And the romantic overnight train ride aboard their own 'Victoria Express' from Hanoi is a memorable travel experience in its own right.

Highs

• Unlike many Sapa hotels, guest rooms have good heating (it can drop to zero at night) and piping hot baths; there's a vast fireplace in the lobby, and a generator in case of power cuts
• Enclosed in verdant grounds above Sapa’s main drag, it offers enviable privacy and tranquility
• The only place in town that provides decent in-resort diversions if the weather deteriorates (which it can)
• Their carriages are much more comfortable and hassle-free than the public trains from Hanoi

Lows

• At nearly 80 rooms, it's much more resorty than most i-escape places
• The bedrooms, though smart and spacious, are not the most characterful
• Some of the hill tribe tours are a bit jaded and mercenary, but staff can arrange a bespoke trip - or blaze your own trail if you want