Vida Sol E Mar

Eating

To take the edge off your journey, look beyond the welcome fruit bowl in your villa to find a complimentary shot glass and mini bottle of cachaca. Not just any type: this comes from the need-to-know bar, "Box 32" in Florianopolis, (said to be the best Cachaca you can buy).

If you book a whole villa or suite, you could be self sufficient: the spotless kitchens have all you need (cooker, microwave, toaster, blender, dishwasher and plenty of crockery and utensils etc). Ask beforehand and they will stock up the fridge for you (it will already come with soft drinks) or arrange a cook - ideal for larger groups or families. But most visit the hotel restaurant and breakfast is included in the rates.

The main restaurant and bar (as well as reception and TV/library room) are set beneath a soaring wood and thatch roof at the top of the hill. An old wooden manoic press and two huge whale bones hint at local history. In low season they just use the smaller poolside restaurant but both have panoramic views over the bay. Sit outside on the deck when the moon rises from the sea and you won't forget it.

For breakfast there's a buffet. Catch owner Enrique holding onto his traditional mate tea canteen as he shuffles between tables. They lay on fresh juice, tropical fruit, hams cheeses, breads, pastries, jams, cereal and yogurt. Help yourself to coffee and tea and there's a hot tin with eggs. We loved the homemade chocolate cake and became addicted to making our morning misto quentes (simple traditional South American ham and cheese toasties).

Dinner and lunch are informal no-fuss affairs with a choice of dishes from Moqueca de Peixe (Bahian fish stew) or filet steak served with fries and fresh veg to a selection of simpler pasta dishes and healthy salads (grilled chicken with mango and palm heart hit the spot). They should be proud of their puddings - the hot chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream, passion fruit mousse and flambeed bananas with dulce de leche were all sufficiently decadent. The food, as well as selection of wines and cocktails, are all reasonably-priced but if you are staying a while in low season, you may find the menu rather limited (it's the same every day for lunch and dinner).

If you want to eat out, it's a 5-minute drive or 10-20 minute walk over the hill and along the village dirt track to a handful of local restaurants offering simple Italian, Brazilian and Asian options. During the day you can get snacks and drinks down on the beach at the nearby wooden shacks.