Vida Sol E Mar

Rooms

Vida Sol e Mar's original hotel rooms may have seen better days but what caught our eye were their 7 new beach villas, built in 2006. Set on a grassy slope between the hotel's main restaurant-reception-pool area and the sea (the 40 original rooms are hidden higher up the hillside), they blend in with the natural surroundings but also come with a large dose of style and comfort.

Named after local birds, each villa has 2-5 double/twin en suite bedrooms (Gavaio and Itadega also have their own pool) - you can either book a whole villa or just a room within a villa. All are a mere stroll across the dunes to Praia de Rosa and have different views of the sea, some spectacular (Itadega), some more distant (Cardeal); some offer greater privacy (Sabiá, Gaviao and Itadega). Whichever is chosen, their large floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the coastal surroundings and we would be happy staying in any.

There's much use of local river stones and Brazilian hardwood, colour-washed furniture, contemporary halogen lighting and most bathrooms have Jacuzzis. Villas wouldn't be complete without large barbecue grills (the owners are Argentinian after all) and all have fire places, Wifi internet, phone, very well equipped kitchens (washer-drier, dishwasher, oven, microwave, even blenders and sandwich makers). Most rooms have AC (the rest have fans) and the living areas come with TV, CD and DVD players. From all first floor rooms you can walk out to wooden decks where there are hammocks, teak rocking chairs or loungers to laze in. There's also a daily maid service.

Our recommendations:

With the exception of Villas Coruja, Sabia and Gavaio, the villas can be rented in part or whole depending on your group size. We recommend the following options:

For 2 people:

The cheapest option is to book a ground floor Deluxe Room in one of the 3-bedroom villas Jeriva, Gaviao or Cardeal; however, although you get an en suite bathroom and a small terrace leading out to the garden, you don't have access to the rest of the villa or its facilities. We strongly recommend paying a few more dollars for the Suite option which gives you the whole of the upper floor including the main bedroom and bathroom as well as exclusive use of the villa's kitchen, living-dining room (including TV, CD player etc) and large deck with table, chairs and hammock.

For 3-4 people:

Request the Hut option in either Jeriva, Gaviao or Cardeal. This gives you the whole of the upper floor (the Suite) including the main double bedroom and bathroom along with exclusive use of the villa's kitchen-living areas plus one of the two ground floor Deluxe Rooms (which can be made up as a twin or double). The villa's other ground floor Deluxe room could be taken by another couple (not in your party), but they would have a separate entrance and no access to the rest of the villa. A further option is to take the smallest house Coruja: it has 2 bedrooms but is a much simpler affair with fewer artistic touches and a lesser view.

For 5-6 people:

Our favourite 3-bedroom villa Sabia feels more private than the others with its own pathway to the beach. Its all white interiors (including painted beams and sofas) give a Hamptons beach house feel. There's also has an outdoor Japanese hot tub with unspoilt views of the dunes and sea.

Jeriva, Gaviao or Cardeal - all with 3 bedrooms - can also be rented in their entirety. A further option would be to take the upper floor of Itadega with its 3 bedrooms, stunning lagoon and sea views, and infinity-edge pool (note: you may have to share the pool if the 2 ground floor rooms are rented out separately to other couples).

For 6-10 people:

Gaivota and Itadega are the most impressive of the villas, each having their own swimming pool and 5 double/twin bedrooms (sleeping up to 10). Both are owned by friends of the owners but are available for rent most of the year. You get excellent views to the beach from both. Gaviota has Balinese touches, white sofas, brightly coloured cushions; Itadega features a breakfast bar created from an old manoic press and a private wine cellar hidden beneath a glass floor.