Vietnam: Overview

Why go?

Vietnam – long and thin – hugs the coast of the South China Sea, a 1600km sweep from the Mekong Delta in the south to the Chinese border in the north. This is a fascinating country with a big history. A thousand years of Chinese rule was followed by 900 years of independence. Then came French colonialism, followed swiftly by American interventionism. In the 1940s Ho Chi Minh inspired a nation to seek its own path; the seismic shift that followed has now settled and these days Vietnam stands proudly at the vanguard of the Indochinese renaissance.

It is hugely rewarding country to visit for the inquisitive tourist. City, beach, mountain, sea, river, temple and countryside all wait to be explored, and as word spreads a growing number of tourists are flocking in to see for themselves. Several UNESCO World Heritage sites take the breath – don’t miss Huế, Hoi An or the sanctuary at My Son – and you now find hotels to rival those in Europe and the US.

Best of all though, you'll experience a wonderfully exotic way of life. The delicious food, striking smells and bright colours will assault your senses, especially in the middle of a European winter. You'll see entire families balanced precariously on a motorbike, paddy fields filled with workers wearing conical hats, beautifully dressed women cycling gracefully around, street tailors who will whip you up a bespoke suit for next to nothing, and hordes of smiling children who all want to hold your hand.

Any Downsides?

Overland travel is slow. While some infrastructure has been put in place (mostly in tourist destinations), roads tend to be poor. It is not possible to hire a car – there are too many accidents on Vietnamese roads for hire companies to make a profit – so those with limited time should expect to fly in and out of the places they want to visit; this detracts from the overall experience. Violence in Vietnam is rare, theft is not. Bag- and camera-snatching is common, especially in the cities. If you come across old ammunition from the war, do not touch them; thousands of Vietnamese have died in the last thirty years from doing so. Finally, if you make it to Sapa, be aware that some of the hillside tours can be a bit jaded or mercenary.

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Activities

* Exploring Hanoi, the seat of government and one of the loveliest cities in Asia. It teems with lakes and monuments and a small army of cyclos peddle you around it. Don’t miss the old town for its narrow streets crammed with shops and cafés

* Experience frantic Ho Chi Minh City – the locals still call it Saigon – which is bigger, faster and glitzier than Hanoi. Glass skyscrapers dwarf handsome colonial architecture, markets come and go on the street, trendy locals pack the bars and 4,000,000 motorbikes cruise the boulevards

* Head south from HCMC and discover The Mekong Delta as it prepares to pour into the South China Sea. Find friendly locals working their paddy fields, floating markets and a seemingly infinite web of tiny canals that brings water from river to field

* Relax on the beaches. 1600km of coastline will satisfy the most demanding sun worshipers and beach freaks. Try undiscovered Phu Quoc island and grab a kilometre of sand to yourself

* Head inland and discover the countryside. Hire a motorbike for the day and follow your nose past paddy fields and water buffalo. You’ll find temples to visit, rivers to swim in, hills to climb

* Snorkel in calm waters, find islands reefs, check out the colourful creatures of the sea. Diving is popular, too, so come and do a PADI course

* Retreat to Dalat, the cooling mountains of the Central Highlands. This is the honeymoon capital of Vietnam. It’s small, French and beautiful – and surrounded by dramatic scenery. Come for forested mountains, ice-blue lakes and the odd waterfall

* Three of the country’s World Heritage sites are fairly close together: Hoi An, an old sleepy riverside town; My Son Sanctuary, the capital of the Champa kingdom known for its spectacular temples; and Huế, the old feudal capital of Vietnam, which stands on the banks of the Perfume River

* Nowhere is the magic of nature more apparent than at Ha Long Bay. Thousands of forested limestone islands (karsts) rise from water in spectacular fashion: swim from beaches, cruise past floating villages, climb up to mountain caves for breathtaking views

* Wherever you go, you’ll find markets crammed with canny locals seeking out an irresistible bargain. Silks and cottons, bronze statues, T-shirts by the million, even mobile phones!

* Head up to Sapa and the mountains of the north. Climb Fansipan, the highest peak in Vietnam; bicycle through river valleys and meet the hill tribes; check out the amazing rice terraces that fall down the mountains; and don’t forget to look up at a glittering night sky

	Overview
	Places to Stay
	What's Where
	Hanoi & North
	Saigon & South
	The East Coast
	Background Info
	Travel Tips
	Getting There
	Getting Around
	When to Go
	Visas/Money
	Health/Safety