Villa Carlotta

Intimate oasis in a turn-of-the-century villa on the edge of Taormina, built into lush cypress-spiked cliffs above the Ionian sea

Taormina has been Sicily’s top tourist attraction for well over a century, and its lavish charms mean that it is likely to stay that way. While many hotels are content to rest on the town’s laurels, the philosophy behind Villa Carlotta is that guests should be treated as if they are friends of friends, and that attention should be paid to every aspect of their stay. There is nothing intrusive about this; it just dawns on you slowly that, for example, a branch of red coral has been placed just here, to echo the fine botanic print above it, and that, should you feel like pausing a while to examine it, there is an Ottoman just there, with a rolled woollen blanket at hand in case the evening breeze is cool.

With 23 exuberant but not over-fancy rooms, it's a small hotel by Taormina's standards, with a lush garden and bijou pool terraced above the rose-coloured tiles of an ancient chapel. The town's ancient theatre, bustling centre and twin coves are within walking distance, Mt. Etna a short drive away; but you may find yourself reluctant to leave.

Highs

• Splendidly sited above the sea among abundant subtropical vegetation, this hotel could not be anywhere other than Taormina
• Roof garden terrace with spectacular views of Mount Etna and the sea by day, and candlelit at night for a quiet aperitif or light meal
• Comfortable, homey sitting room with books, games and snooze-inducing sofas
• All rooms except one have bathtubs
• Witty attention to detail in the décor

Lows

• The exposed catacombs in the bar are not everyone's cup of tea
• Small garden does not always catch the sun
• Candles in the public spaces were not lit at night when we visited
• When taking a shower, be careful to close the hinged shower screens completely or you will flood the bathroom
• No restaurant - but breakfast is substantial and there's a lovely rooftop bar where light meals can be served