Villa i Bossi

A charmingly informal aristocratic villa offering B&B in the wooded hills near historic Arezzo.

Italy became a republic half a century ago, but the countless castles and country piles dotted around Tuscany suggest that the aristocracy is alive and well. We decided to investigate, and followed a small road from Arezzo up a wooded side-valley to the imposing Villa i Bossi.

It's like stepping back into a different era. Sweeping in through monumental (and slightly rusting) gates, wandering through landscaped gardens graced with 2 swimming pools and a Jacuzzi, sleeping in the same bedrooms as visiting bishops and lords... the atmosphere throughout is one of faded grandeur. It has been in the family for over 900 years, and the present marchesa, Francesca Albergotti, will show you panelled drawing rooms where portraits of illustrious ancestors sit alongside recent snapshots of her family. She'll point out where the drawbridge was, open the door to the private chapel (once visited by a pope), and tell stories about the vestments and religious relics. She’ll also help you explore the area, suggesting car tours and walks, arranging wine- and oil-tastings, and recommending restaurants for dinner. And if you're lucky, she might cook for you.

Highs

• The rare experience of living in a historic home (a private museum really), which has been in the family since 928
• A charming, relaxed hostess who makes you feel part of the family
• Secluded and unspoilt location in the Tuscan countryside, with Arezzo only 5km away
• Spacious rooms in the old house or in the more recent annex
• Two lovely swimming pools (one for adults only) - a rare concession to the 21st century!

Lows

• Service is minimal - this is not like staying in a hotel. Francesca sums it up as "a cultural experience - not for everybody"
• You need a car to get anywhere
• Rooms in the main house lack such modernities as air conditioning, TVs, phones and WiFi (there are better-equipped rooms in the annex)
• Furniture in the main house rooms is well-worn / quaint - depending on your point of view