Villa Mangiacane

Romantic villa with Renaissance frescoes, beautiful gardens, acres of vineyard and a luxurious spa - 12km outside Florence

If you love Florence but can’t stand the crowds, this could be the answer: a magnificent country house steeped in history and art, Renaissance paintings, richly decorated rooms, Italian marbled bathrooms, two cool pools in a tranquil garden and a sumptuous spa, all set among acres of forest and rolling vineyard. It’s worlds away from the bustle of the Uffizi or the Piazza del Signoria, but so, so close. From a terrace, framed by the soaring arches of a double loggia, you can just see the dome of the Duomo.

It was a 15th-century ruin when South African owner Glynn Cohen found it in 2000. Enchanted, he took the old place on, devoting four years and a small fortune on restoring the rooms, the frescoes and the grounds (lawns, jasmine, orchids, acacia and an avenue of cypress). Now, his villa oozes style and polish. It is still, however, a home, one that delivers grandeur and gravitas without being the least bit snooty. And there are so many lovely corners to chill out in you might just give Florence a miss.

Highs

• Rural village location, a 15-minute drive to Florence (taxi or free shuttle)
• Sunset drinks on the villa’s frescoed loggia – prosecco plus views across the Arno Valley
• The grounds are a joy - fragrant, shaded by mature trees and sprinkled with terracotta pots, baby lemon trees and sculptures
• No matter how full, the villa never feels busy
• Luxury outdoor pools - and private plunge pools for some of the double rooms
• A 10-minute walk across vineyards to a rustic restaurant - should the villa's haute cuisine pall!

Lows

• The spa is closed for refurbishment until further notice, although you can still book full body massages and use both pools
• Some of the rooms only look onto their own private garden (but the vineyards and countryside are just outside)
• The arty black and white photographic nudes (shot in the villa by Pette Hegre) get a bit tiresome. Ditto the fashion-show videos on wide-screen loops in the reception areas
• Service was patchy when we visited - but by all accounts new manager Juan now runs a tight ship