Villa Rosmarino

Super-stylised Ligurian palazzo with pool set above the achingly beautiful fishing village of Camogli

Camogli is the last secret of the Italian Riviera, a breathtaking cliffside of yellow and ochre trompe-l'oeil houses and clear blue waters around the peninsula from legendary Portofino, where the Armani and Versace villas sit.

Up above, Villa Rosmarino, built in 1907, is an authentic Genoese palazzo with original mosaic flooring. The pool is set in a lovely garden of magnolia, lemon, tangerine and grapefruit trees, with restful scents of lavender and rosemary. It's been given a thoroughly modern makeover by owner Mario, an ex-advertising exec who gave up Milan for this tranquil hideaway; in its stark simplicity, the main decoration is the collection of contemporary art that came with Mario, including a spectacular cache of Italian vases. A wonderfully stylish base from which to explore the coast - beautiful walks, romantic boat rides, sunset aperitivi - and the absorbing city of Genoa, with its labyrinth of streets and moody bars. The area's cuisine is the icing on the cake.

Highs

• Location - the only hotel of its kind in this enchanting fishing village, a (steepish) 10-15 minute walk downhill
• Private collection of paintings, photographs, interesting furniture, art and design books
• Luxurious bedlinen and bathrooms - with resin flooring and some with pancake-size showers
• Some rather special restaurants a short drive away
• No need for a car - the coastal trains are brilliant

Lows

• No in-house dining - just breakfast and a small selection of drinks
• Lack of TV and telephone in the rooms (this could be a bonus) and no air con
• No twin beds
• Interiors could feel slightly clinical for those who don't relish the immaculate, uncluttered decor
• The nearest beach (a 10-minute walk downhill) is pebbly - but sunloungers are available