Villa de L'O

An impeccably manicured small hotel with a hint of Raffles and a dash of Eastern caravanserai at the heart of Morocco’s funkiest coastal town

Hidden behind the medina walls, right by the sea, this onetime almond storage depot is minutes from everything lovely old Essaouira has to offer: idyllic white and pinkwashed houses, rolling dunes, harbour, fish stalls, souks. Yet despite its central location it is blissfully tranquil.

The moment those huge bolted doors swing open to reveal an elegantly furnished 18th-century colonnaded patio and a cageful of chirruping birds, you know you've arrived at a rare place. Behind a grand sweep of curtain lies a delectable French salon; through intricately carved doors, a dining room with an intimate air. Follow French owners Celine or Caroline up tiered inner balconies to spoilingly comfortable, hugely handsome bedrooms and you’ll wish you'd booked for longer. And, bet your bottom dirham, after sipping a cocktail from a cool lounger on the shaded roof terrace, with views over ramparts, souks and kite surfers on the beach - you will quietly ask if you might stay an extra night or two…

Highs

• The privilege of staying in a privately owned, 18th-century riad
• The comfort and elegance of the 'O'-themed bedrooms
• The roof terrace (best view in town?) and the position, between ramparts and sandy beach
• The delightful young owners and their ever-helpful staff

Lows

• Bedrooms are more colonial than Moroccan
• No meals apart from breakfast are on offer but you're within easy strolling distance of all the city's best eateries
• There's only one twin-bedded room, so non-couples should book early
• One room is on the dark side